In praise of: Carters of Moseley. Michelin Starred dining from a Vegetarian perspective. 


  
It’s taken me awhile to get this review posted, but in so many ways I’m pleased it has. You see a couple of weeks ago Carters of Moseley was awarded its first Michelin Star. 

Now back in May when Ruth and I celebrated our wedding anniversary with a meal so beautifully put together, this was just a dream in chef Brad and front of house Holly’s mind. 

Yet the hard work to amaze and impress and make this small neighbourhood restaurant one of the jewels in Birmingham is now been taken seriously by more than just mere locals like me and thus the story of Carters of Moseley evolves. 

It all began with a Good Food Guide Restaurant of the Year in 2015, lots of garnished praise locally, plus a great review in The Independent newspaper. 

Yet, when Ruth and I entered chez Carters we hoped for a celebratory meal and man did we get one. 

From it’s mere storefront outside Carters provides food that is quintessential of the perfect neighbourhood restaurant, locally sourced ingredients, foraged often, good value for money food and service which is amongst the best and friendliest anywhere. 

For Vegetarians it’s a journey of enticing flavours, textures and innovation. The seasonality of ingredients used make it fresh, and exciting. 

Simplicity and restraint is central to the cooking, the preparation of the produce with its essence on ingredients is to be applauded. So why does this sound like a conclusion before I’ve shown the dishes? Well, this is a post that’s in praise of Carters of Moseley, not a review as such, but just me saying Vegetarians go there, don’t hesitate, just do it. You won’t regret it. 

So to the food: 5 course menu. 

   
  

To begin a trio of small dishes: 

  Courgette Flower, Ricotta.

  Sparkenhoe Biscuit

   Ogelshield Gougeres.

All three dishes show the touch of dash that makes up the Carters ambition. Good flavours, the precision in the presentation and cooking. A lovely trio. 

As a footnote, we also enjoyed some beautiful homemade wholemeal bread made from flour from the local 250 year old Sarehole Mill, served with butter for vegetarians. 

  Black Headed Gull’s Eggs: 

A seasonal addition to the set 5 course menu. 

Handpicked from around the South Coast of England. The eggs are hand selected by ‘Eggers’ regarded as the greatest eggs on the market. Only 20.000 are picked across the whole country and The season is only three weeks long. 

The whites were delicate, soft and melted in the mouth. A vibrant yolk orange in colour made for a creamy texture and rich flavoured finish. 
  Lichfield Asparagus, Moliterno Al Tartufo.  

A pretty dish of delicate seasonal (May) and local asparagus with an intense black truffle like flavour from the sharp beautiful cheese. An irresistible flavour and texture. 

  Parsley Grains, Lemon Pickled Fennel. 

Then, a satisfying risotto like dish. Prettyness, prediction and confident cooking with lovely flavours running through it. 

  Salt Baked Carrots, Barley Milk, Swiss Chard.

A dish full of flavour, the salt roasting bringing out the vibrant textures of the carrots and lays it on a bed of Swiss Chard. Very Copenhagen, well seasoned, well…’it’, well done. 

 Wye Valley Rhubarb with Rose and Custard.  

Finally to puds: A simple soothing to the palette desert, local rhubarb given refreshing flavours. Lovely. 

  

 
 Sheep’s yoghurt mousse, alphonso mango, pistachio.

Delicious, well presented and creative dish. A decadent desert. 

 Wedding anniversary surprise. 

Well tempered home made chocolate. A lovely touch. 

A word on the service which is amongst the best anywhere. It forms a huge part of our evening, and Holly was attentive and enthusiastic throughout.  It’s not stiff or formal, but friendly, the vibe is relaxed. It is true in this case that the service and food do work in tandem. 

Food at Carters is intricately simple and focuses on flavour, there are few ingredients on the plate 3 or 4 components which allows them to build a properly prepared dish that’s both seasonal and fresh and of the moment. 

The focus is on the food and their own style, which allows the five courses to be an menu to eat rather than to taste. The dishes build like an orchestration and leave you with a symphonic high by the final movement. 

Consistent in quality and true to their passions Carters cooking shows a smart touch in the kitchen. Not pretentious, not complicated and good value for money. 

Carters of Moseley is a lovely neighbourhood restaurant.  One that for vegetarians should be a must and a ‘when can we go.’

An adventure in food. 

One to savour. 
   

  
Thanks for reading. 

Andy 😊

Disclosure: We paid for our meal in full. All opinions are my own, and are honest as always. 

5 courses are £45.

3 course lunch: £28. Half bottle of house wine £8. 

Sunday lunch: £32. 

Sunday Supper: £32. 

 No A La Carte menu served. 

We also drank a bottle of The Crusher Viognier 2012: £26.50. A beautiful Pale, Golden White. Delicious with the food. Plus two glasses of Champaigne. 

  

http://cartersofmoseley.co.uk/

2c St Mary’s Row, Wake Green Road, Moseley, Birmingham, B13 9EZ. 

0121-449-8885.

https://twitter.com/cartersmoseley

#TastyMorsel: Nathan Eades announced as Head Chef of Michelin Starred Simpsons Restaurant. 


  
Exciting news reached me yesterday through the Twitter world that Nathan Eades, former chef owner of Epi at The Courtyard in Bromsgrove has taken over from Matt Cheal to become head chef at Simpsons. 

Ruth and I have been to Simpsons numerous times since we met. The place is fantastic, a beautiful building, sophisticated, iconic in Birmingham and a special place to visit for that celebratory occasion. It just has a way of making you feel special and indeed cossatted. 

On the last two times I’ve bisited though I’ve felt a little underwhelmed by the Vegetarian dishes. Though not bad in any way, I felt other like for like restaurants in the Michelin world and indeed in Birmingham did things better. More adventurous, more care, more emphasis on the ingredients.

Having tried Nathan’s food at Epi in Bromsgrove and raving about it on my blog, I’m excited to see what veggie concoctions he can come up with in his new kitchen. It should be interesting and I’m sure an improvement. See my review here: 

https://vegiefoodie.com/2014/10/01/epi-restaurant-beautiful-vegetarian-dishes-in-bromsgrove-worcestershire/

Nathan’s appointment comes at a time of major change for the restaurant which is currently undergoing the latter stages of a refurbishment. 
Nathan will be in the kitchen ready for the reopening on Wednesday 16 September. 

Nathan began his culinary year as a catering student at Worcester College and spent two years working as an apprentice at Nailcote Hall in Warwickshire. In the past 11 years he has worked at Lainstone House in Winchester, Swinfen Hall Hotel and spent a year in Vancouver working at the Wedgwood Hotel and Spa. Prior to setting up his own restaurant Nathan spent more than a year working as senior sous chef at Fishmore Hall Hotel in Ludlow, the only restaurant in the area to hold three AA rosettes at the time. 

The new look Simpsons will be reopening with limited availability from Wednesday 16 September, please call 0121 454 3434 or email info@simpsonsrestaurant.co.uk to reserve your table. 

For further information please visit: http://www.simpsonsrestaurant.co.uk

Thanks for reading. 

Andy 

  
How Simpsons will look after its refurbishment. 

Photos courtesy of Nathan Eades/Simpsons.